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Archive for August, 2009

In the days leading up to Ramadan 1430 A.H.*, many a Muslim student encouraged me to attempt fasting for one day if not the entire holy month.  I thought about it, briefly.

You see, fasting for Ramadan is about more than putting yourself in the shoes of the impoverished; it’s about pleasing Allah and becoming closer to Him.  Yesterday on our commute to campus, I was fortunate enough to be sitting in front of a Syrian friend (who’s never been to Syria by the way) named Khaled.  I consider Khaled to be amongst the student leaders in the religious regard.  He often leads the prayers when the students are away from a mosque and he has read the Quran 1000 times over.  I’ve read my favorite book twice.

On the journey, Khaled explained this act of fasting on a new level.  For starters, fasting for Ramadan includes the following: no food, drink, daytime sex, and breathing (just kidding) while the sun is still shining.  Some of the more extreme Muslims even go so far as avoiding all forms of music.  It was a girl’s birthday on our bus the other day and I had to ask permission for us to sing to her.

As I mentioned above, fasting is done to please Allah and not because Muslims fear punishment from Him.  Fortunately I came across a printed document that went so far as to say that if you weren’t fasting for these reasons, there was no reason for you to be fasting at all.  Thank God!  From that point on, I didn’t feel any remorse for sneaking snacks and liquids in the torturous heat and dedicated myself to the role of “faithful observer of those fasting.”

To be quite honest, observing those who are fasting is almost as hard as doing it yourself.  Every evening as dinner time approaches, handshakes and high fives get weaker and glances at the watch become more and more frequent.  It’s to the point where you’re fully consumed in their energy levels and do everything possible to help them stay focused on the mission at hand.

When the call to break the fast finally comes, the Iftar, or dinner that breaks the fast begins.  Within minutes of this calling I’m surrounded by living humans once again and a sense of relief settles in the air, temporarily.  Last night we had the Iftar with the entire “KAUST Community” including the Saudi Oil Minister.  It was a nice event, save for my shorts and tank top attire, which is probably the equivalent of showing up to dinner in your pajamas… it was a hot day.

We continue to live in the hotel, where I’ve become quite close with the Bangladeshi cleaning my room, but we’re hoping to get to the campus within the next week Insha’Allah!

One more true story; during a Q&A session yesterday, an Egyptian student so convinced by the magic of KAUST asked the assistant provost if she could do something about the unbearable hot and humid temperatures outside.  Why didn’t I think to ask that one?

KAUST, whatever it costs!

As the piece of artwork in the Vice-President’s office so truthfully says, “KAUST: Whatever It Costs!”

*A.H. represents the number of years since the Prophet Muhammed (PBUH) made his first pilgrimage from Mecca to Medina.

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If the process of getting to a country is any implication of what you’re in for, the trip to Saudi never tells a lie.  Extensive visa applications, medicals, religious confessions, and heavy travel are all on the shortlist.  On our trip over this time, we encountered yet another “common” but new site for sore American eyes.  Waiting for us in the security line in front of our gate was a group of nearly 200 Muslims clad in white.  The group of Moroccans making the Umrah* put any college toga party to shame, and truthfully struck a nerve of fear at first site.  Watching multiple men get stripped of pocket knives and then watching a hundred Muslims pray in unison before the flight (hopefully praying for a safe travel of course) was a pinch intimidating.  Hands down best part of it all was when they got on the plane and thought they could sit wherever they liked (these were older aged people).  If you’ve never seen a crew of German-speaking flight attendants barking orders at Arab-speaking pilgrims with no comprehension whatsoever, you’re missing out.

After settling in Saudi for roughly six hours after 36 hours of travel time (luggage still in LAX, never fly UNITED) we set out for the campus.  Many people read about the magic of the Middle East, specifically the projects in Dubai, but you really have no idea how incredible these projects are until you see them with your own eyes.  It’s unfortunate that I didn’t snap any photos because the awe factor challenges anyone’s first trip to Disneyland; from the Golf Course to the Yacht Club to the Student Center (Photos to come soon).

To complement the ridiculously lavish campus, the school decided to throw a new twist at us: Everything on campus will be FREE for the first semester on top of the norm (room and board, tuition, and a stipend).  This includes books, water sports, golf, movies, and FOOD (fast food, cafeteria, coffee shops, and bars included).  Even more ridiculous is the rumor flying that they plan on buying each student a Segway to get around campus.  Call us spoiled, but come to a country where your polarized sunglasses fog up every time you leave an air-conditioned room and your forearms sweat as much as your armpits, and then you’ll understand.

As excited as all of the students are to leave the hotel for our new apartments on campus, there’s a certain giddy feeling in everyone surrounding the inauguration event on September 23rd.  The event is set to host not only the King of Saudi Arabia, but 50 other Presidents from around the world.  Big Time Baby, and to think I turned down a chance to be a part of the ceremony.  Bros before… Presidents, clearly.

With the NFL regular season just around the corner, there’s one more thing I need to share with everyone about the Saudis; and it’s about the women.  I know you’ve all been wondering why I chose Saudi, and frankly, it’s because the women here make me feel at home.  It’s a given that 99% of them will wake up every morning clad in Silver (jewelry) and Black (abaya) like any other true RAIDER fan might!

The Women of the Raider Nation

All jokes aside, I’ve never wished I lived in a country full of 49er fans in my life more than right now!

*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umrah

Next up: Ramadan.

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Welcome to the Big Leagues.For those of you who remember the day last year...

In case you weren’t already aware, it’s my birthday (+/- 12 hours) somewhere in the world at the time of this inaugural post.  I figured what better time to publicly showcase my new blog than on my birthday, when hundreds (if not thousands in this case) of people will inevitably be hitting my facebook page and dutifully acknowledging my “status;” which directed you here.

I invite all of my friends, familiy, and the culturally inspired to follow my adventures in the Middle East over the next two years via this web portal.  You’ll be sure to find exciting stories as well as photos showcasing the beauty (and sometimes blight) of this unknown world on a semi-regular basis.

Check in every couple of weeks or subscribe to an RSS feed!

Until then, see the About page for a more detailed repetition of why I’m traveling to Saudi Arabia and PLEASE, comment freely and frequently… as this concept of Freedom of Speech is something I want you to abuse for me during my absence from America.

Cheers,

Eric “ibn Gary” Martin.

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